Ambergris: What It Is, History, Properties, and How to Identify It

Ambergris: What It Is, History, Properties, and How to Identify It

What is Ambergris?

Ambergris is a waxy, buoyant substance produced in the digestive system of sperm whales. It forms when these marine mammals cannot fully digest squid beaks and other hard materials, causing a secretion that, after being expelled into the sea, undergoes oxidation and photodegradation for years, transforming into the prized ambergris. 

History and Uses of Ambergris

Since ancient times, ambergris has been valued for its unique properties. The ancient Egyptians used it as incense, the Chinese believed it was dragon's slime, while in medieval Europe it was used in ointments and as an aphrodisiac. In modern perfumery, it has been used as a natural fixative, prolonging the life of fragrances and providing complex and lasting olfactory notes.   

Properties of Ambergris

• Aroma : Its scent evolves over time. Initially, it may be unpleasant, but with oxidation, it acquires sweet, earthy, marine, and tobacco notes. 

• Texture and Color : Varies from light gray to black, with a waxy and brittle texture. 

• Chemical Composition : Contains ambrein, a compound that acts as a fixative in perfumery. 

How to Identify Ambergris

Identifying authentic ambergris can be a challenge. Based on my experience, I share some practical methods:

• Buoyancy : Ambergris is light and should float in salt water.

• Evolving Aroma : If black, it may smell like manure; over time, it develops aromas of tobacco and seaweed, and eventually, a distinctive oceanic odor.

• Texture : It should be hard but brittle, able to be broken with the hands, but not melt like wax.

• String Test : When you warm a small piece on a spoon and press it between your fingers, it should form a sticky string when you separate them.

Differences between True and False Ambergris

• Wax : Counterfeits are usually made of wax, which when heated on a spoon and placed between the thumb and index finger does not produce a small thread to separate the fingers.

• Resins : Some resins may look similar, but lack the evolving aroma and texture of ambergris.

• Stones : Sometimes a simple stone of the same color can be confused with ambergris